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Oatmeal With Bacon, Cheese and Pickled Jalapeños

Your takeout grain bowl has nothing on this creamy, savoury oats

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By The Washington Post | December 4, 2018 | Recipes

Text by Kara Elder (c) 2018, The Washington Post

 

If you are a person with texture issues - meaning, you do not generally enjoy mushy foods - then getting through a bowl of oatmeal presents a challenge. Being generous with crunchy and chewy toppings helps; using steel-cut rather than rolled is another way to add bite. But if you're also a person who generally skews savory over sweet, then the typical bowl of morning oatmeal, doused in maple syrup, just isn't going to cut it.

Enter savoury oats.

Perhaps you're already enlightened and have been spreading the news of savoury oats for years now. But according to a very unscientific poll of friends and co-workers, savoury oats are little-known and a bit of a tough sell. (The words "gruel" and "Please, sir, I want some more" were uttered more than once.) Savoury oatmeal is the grain bowl's creamy, comforting cousin, the perfect home for a fried egg or last night's roasted vegetables. If you remain skeptical, it may help to think of oats as just another starchy base upon which to build layers of flavor and top with various proteins or sauces - much like pasta, rice, grits, toast and more.

Let's start with Oats Upma - if you're hesitant about savoury oats, this may be your gateway. The South Indian porridge is usually made with sooji (semolina) and eaten for breakfast or as a snack, says Washington chef-restaurateur K.N. Vinod. But the mix of chopped green beans, carrots and shallots, flavoured with mustard seed, turmeric, ginger and curry leaves, also works well with oats. The whole thing takes about 30 minutes (or less, if you've chopped your vegetables in advance). You can make it with steel-cut or rolled oats - if you plan on reheating leftovers, we preferred the steel-cut version. Either way, the finished texture straddles the line between oatmeal and pilaf, with plenty of texture from the vegetables.

But if it's porridge that you want, then porridge you shall have! We turn to the ever-popular multicooker to make a big batch of steel-cut oats in broth, for extra flavor. You can use any ol' broth here: Vegetable, chicken, turkey, pork. While the oats are bubbling away, you'll cook a pound of sliced mushrooms in a bit of butter and a splash of dry vermouth or white wine (flavor booster!). After the oats are done and the pressure is releasing, fry a few eggs, then top each bowl with a mound of those mushrooms, an egg and a big scoop of kimchi. For extra crunch, scatter a few store-bought crispy fried onions or shallots on top. (A poached or jammy egg is nice, too, as are sauteed greens.) The steel-cut oats also reheat well; if needed, thin them out to your desired consistency with a bit more broth or water.

Both of those are good options for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but since they do require a little chopping and slicing, they may not be ideal when time is short. For that, make your oatmeal in the microwave, following the tips laid out here. With water, bouillon and a few flavorful toppings (read: bacon and cheese), this version reminded me of a warm bowl of grits. One day, I had leftover roasted tomato halves and sauteed spinach in the refrigerator, so those went on top, too. In about five minutes, I had a warming, comforting lunch.

And guess what? When I made these recipes for family and co-workers, they really did ask for more.

 

Oatmeal With Bacon, Cheese and Pickled Jalapeños

 

Servings: 1

 

Ingredients

1⁄3 cup dried rolled oats (do not use instant or quick-cooking oats)

2⁄3 cup water, or more as needed

1⁄4 teaspoon vegetable bouillon concentrate, such as Better Than Bouillon brand

2 tablespoons shredded cheese, such as sharp cheddar, colby jack or a blend

2 slices cooked, crisped bacon

A few pickled jalapeño slices

Cooked greens, such as spinach, kale or collards, for serving (optional)

Roasted cherry tomato halves, for serving (optional)

1 large egg, fried, poached or soft-cooked, for serving (optional)

 

Steps

Stir together the oats, water and bouillon concentrate in a large, microwave-safe bowl (at least 2-cup capacity). The bouillon won't dissolve yet; this is okay. Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH for 2 minutes, watching closely to make sure the mixture doesn't boil over. Stop and restart the microwave as needed to prevent overflow. 

Stir to distribute the bouillon; be careful, the bowl will be hot. Microwave on HIGH for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the oats are cooked to your desired degree of doneness: Less time will yield slightly chewy oats, while the full 2 minutes will yield more tender results. For a soupier consistency, stir in more water, a tablespoon or two at a time.

Top with the shredded cheese, bacon and pickled jalapeño slices, plus the sauteed greens, roasted tomato halves and egg, if using.

Steel-cut Oats with Kimchi

 

Servings: 4 (makes 3 1/2 cups oats)

Steel-cut oats cook beautifully in an Instant Pot or other electric multicooker. We've made them savory by using broth and piling mushrooms, a fried egg and a healthy dose of kimchi on top. 

Treat the oats like you would any saucy starch and use them as a base for whatever toppings you have on hand - pulled pork, sauteed greens or roasted vegetables, for example.

Make ahead: The base oats can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or for up to a week if using vegetable broth. You may need to add more broth when reheating. The cooked mushrooms will keep for a week in the refrigerator. Fry the eggs just before serving.

 

Ingredients

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter

1 cup dried steel-cut oats

1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

3 cups chicken or vegetable broth (may also use turkey or pork stock)

1 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and sliced (6 cups)

1 tablespoon dry vermouth (may substitute white wine, Madeira or apple cider vinegar)

4 large eggs

Freshly ground pepper, as needed

Kimchi, for serving

Crispy fried onions or shallots, for serving

 

Steps

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in the electric multicooker using the SAUTE function (set to normal, if your cooker has the option). Add the oats and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt; cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently, to toast the oats.

Add the broth, then lock on the lid and set the valve to sealing. Set to high pressure and cook for 10 minutes. When finished, let the pressure release naturally for 10 minutes, then manually release the steam.

Meanwhile, cook the mushrooms: Melt 1 teaspoon of butter in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Cook for about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft, browned and their moisture has released and mostly evaporated. Stir in the vermouth and cook for 1 minute, or until it evaporates. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate, then wipe the skillet clean. (You'll use it to fry the eggs.)

Once you manually release the pressure for the oats, fry your eggs. (The oats are a little soupy immediately after you open the pot, but they'll firm up as they sit - so if you want the oats soupier, fry your eggs earlier. If you want them firmer, fry later.) Melt the remaining 1 teaspoon of butter in the skillet over medium heat (do this in batches if necessary, but you can fit four eggs in a 12-inch skillet). Turn the eggs over to cook on the second side, if desired, and fry them as runny or firm as you like. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

To serve, divide the oats among individual bowls, then top each portion with the mushrooms, a big spoonful of kimchi, an egg and a sprinkle of crispy fried onions or shallots.

Oats recipe adapted from "Dinner in an Instant: 75 Modern Recipes for Your Pressure Cooker, Multicooker, and Instant Pot," by Melissa Clark (Clarkson Potter, 2017); savory twist and toppings adapted from Washington-based Number 1 Sons and Portland, Maine, chef Jonathan Uribe.