Text by Cathy Barrow, Special to The Washington Post
Following some weeks of indulgences, my husband declared he planned to reduce his sugar intake. Commendable! But it messed with my baking, which is something I do not only for work but also for relaxation. With a familiar, albeit retro, appetizer in mind - dates stuffed with goat cheese - I set out to make a savory tea cake that would fit a sugar-reducing objective.
Tea cake: Two words that evoke date loaves made by my grandmother. They were studded with walnuts and heavy with brown sugar. Not only did she slather dense slices with cream cheese and serve it to her mah-jongg group, she often wrapped up a loaf as a hostess gift, carrying it to nearly every occasion.
Banana bread falls in this category, as does zucchini bread, August's option for abundant harvests from home gardens. While these and other quick breads (Dorie Greenspan's Mediterranean Yogurt Cake, for instance) are delicious for afternoon snacking, I wanted something much more savory, more appropriate for nibbling alongside a glass of sherry or wine, rather than a cup of tea.
Using my grandmother's date loaf recipe as a guide, I went the quick-bread route. I swapped olive oil for the butter, took out the sugar, added cornmeal for heft and caramelized onions for oomph. The additions of chives, rosemary and parsley made the loaf attractive, studded with flecks of green, and served to clarify the expectation: Here is a savory interpretation of a classic loaf. It can be disquieting to bite into something savory when expecting it to be sweet, after all.
I felt the quick bread needed pancetta even though my sugar-reducing spouse is a vegetarian, because it cried out for a salty, textural balance as a counterpoint to the sweet dates. I can also report that the pancetta and goat cheese are complementary compatriots. To maintain harmony in my household, I made one version pancetta-free and it, too, was delicious. In the end, we each had a quick bread we could call our own, and sugar-reducing intentions remained intact.
Quick breads are a winning take-along option for any get-together, with a longer shelf life than cupcakes and layer cakes. Admittedly, I have very little experience with cake lingering, but reliable sources have told me the slices of my savory loaf are just as tender four days later.
I'm still baking on a regular basis. While some days I might find a certain someone nibbling on sweet treats cooling on the counter, he is more likely to ask me to make a savory loaf these days. I'm planning to try a combination of dried figs and asiago cheese; surely a dried pear and cheddar loaf would be welcome - even apricots and feta, with a handful of chopped pistachios. For now, the options seem endlessly inspiring. And sugar-free.
Bring this treat to share with a sweetheart, a neighbor or your office mates. An afternoon break sharing a slice and a beverage of choice will be a welcome respite from, well, everything.
OLIVE OIL QUICK BREAD WITH PANCETTA, DATES AND GOAT CHEESE
10 servings (makes one 8 1/2-by-41/2-inch loaf)
Use a sweet, golden olive oil, the more buttery the better; bitter, green oils are too strong for this bread. You'll need an 81/2-by-41/2-inch loaf pan.
MAKE AHEAD: The flavors develop even more after the bread rests for a day, wrapped in foil and refrigerated. Reheat gently for 10 minutes at 325 degrees if you wish to serve it warm. It's delicious toasted. Leftovers are good for up to 4 days.
From Bring It! columnist and cookbook author Cathy Barrow.
INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil (see headnote)
3 ounces pancetta, chopped into pea-size pieces (1/4 cup; see headnote)
1/2 medium onion, minced (1/2 cup)
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
12 pitted dates, chopped into pea-size pieces (about 1 cup)
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
2 teaspoons minced fresh chives
1/2 cup whole milk
3 large eggs
About 3 ounces (1/3 cup) fresh goat cheese, crumbled into pea-size pieces
STEPS
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat the inside of your loaf pan with cooking oil spray. Line a plate with a paper towel.
Cook the pancetta in a dry skillet over medium heat until crisped, about 8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to the lined plate to drain. As needed, pour off all but about a teaspoon of the rendered fat in the pan, then return to medium heat and add the onion. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until wilted and lightly browned in spots. Remove from the heat.
Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the chopped dates and fresh parsley, rosemary and chives; use your fingers to break up the sticky pieces and coat them with the flour mixture. This will help keep those solids from sinking to the bottom during baking.
Whisk together the oil, milk and eggs in a liquid measuring cup until well incorporated. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture; pour in the oil mixture. Use a flexible spatula to gently stir and combine the liquid and dry ingredients, scraping the dry ingredients up from the bottom of the bowl regularly. Once there are no white streaks remaining, stir in the crisped pancetta, cooked onion and goat cheese until evenly distributed.
Scrape into the prepared pan. Bake (middle rack) for 55 to 65 minutes, until the cake has risen to form a golden brown crown and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.
Turn out from the pan onto a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving, or cool completely before storing.
Feature Image: Stacy Zarin Goldberg, The Washington Post
