Hemelhuijs' Winter Menu Delivers Art, Heritage, and Comfort
Few restaurants manage to achieve a balance between heritage and innovation quite like Hemelhuijs. Now in its 15th year, Jacques Erasmus’s iconic inner-city café continues to enchant with a winter menu that is as heartfelt as it is sophisticated.
Walking into Hemelhuijs on a crisp Cape Town morning feels like stepping into another world - moody hues, handcrafted ceramics, and fresh flowers from their Montagu farm create a space that instantly soothes. It’s the kind of place where time slows, and the meal unfolds like a story - layered, emotional, and unexpectedly transporting.
I began with a Clementine Mimosa, and I’m not exaggerating when I say it set the tone for the entire experience. Fresh, zesty, and utterly vibrant, it felt like sunshine in a glass - elegant but unfussy, and just the right amount of celebratory.
The first dish to arrive, the mushroom dumplings, was a revelation. The wrapper was tender and delicate, encasing an earthy, savoury filling that tasted like a walk through a pine forest after rain - rich, grounding, and wonderfully umami. The accompanying broth was so fragrant and gently seasoned I found myself sipping the last spoonfuls like tea.
Next, the panko-crusted cheese and smoked salami croquettes - and truly, these are not to be missed. Crisp on the outside, melting within, each bite offered a hit of creamy indulgence followed by that subtle, smoky salami finish. Paired with a tart tomato chutney, they struck a perfect balance between richness and lift. I’d return for these alone.
For mains, I chose the Café de Paris roasted kingklip, which was - simply put - exceptional. The fish was cooked to perfection: delicate flakes just barely holding together, cloaked in the decadent butter sauce, lifted by briny capers and the citrus tang of shaved Etrog citron. The roasted tomatoes gave it a touch of comforting sweetness, while fresh parsley cut through with brightness. Every bite was beautifully orchestrated, each element purposeful and precise.
But perhaps the biggest surprise of the afternoon was the Old Fashioned Frikadelle. A childhood staple for many South Africans, here it’s reimagined with care and a contemporary twist. The spicing was subtle but warming, the texture tender and moist, and the flavour deeply nostalgic. There was something incredibly grounding about it - a dish that reminded me of home, but polished and plated in a way that made it feel like something new.
Throughout the meal, I found myself slowing down, not wanting the experience to end too quickly. There’s a softness to Hemelhuijs that’s rare - a quiet confidence in every detail, from the weight of the glassware to the generous hospitality of the staff. The food doesn’t shout; it speaks softly and stays with you long after you’ve left.
Jacques Erasmus is not just a chef - he’s a storyteller, and this winter menu is one of his most elegant chapters yet. With flavours that honour heritage and a space that nurtures the senses, Hemelhuijs remains one of Cape Town’s most special destinations.
If you’re seeking more than a meal - if you want an experience that feeds your body and soul - pull up a chair at Hemelhuijs this winter. Let it wrap you in its quiet luxury. And don’t forget the croquettes.
Details:
71 Waterkant Street, Cape Town
Mon-Fri 9am-4pm
Sat 9am–3pm
Closed Sunday
+27 21 418 2042
www.hemelhuijs.co.za
Instagram: @hemelhuijs