Scala Pasta Bar Delivers Bold, Brilliant Twists on Tradition

From the moment I stepped into Scala’s sultry, black-walled interior, with warm tan-leather booths and the soft theatre of the open kitchen glowing at its heart, I knew I was in for something different.

Scala is not a trattoria trying to echo tradition. It’s a bold, confident reimagining of Italian cuisine, led by Executive Chef Justin Barker in collaboration with Italy’s “King of Carbonara,” Luciano Monosilio. Here, pasta isn’t comfort food — it’s performance art. And every dish is a scene-stealer.

A Prelude of Umami and Indulgence

We started with a table full of starters — as one must, given Scala’s share-plate approach. First up: Italian olive and potato focaccia, still warm from the oven, its crust golden and just crisp enough to contrast with the cloud-like interior. Dotted with briny olives, it needed nothing — though we did appreciate the clean crunch of the accompanying grissini stick, a perfect textural foil.

Then came a dish that stopped conversation cold: the grilled wild mushrooms with parmesan foam, soy-cured egg yolk, and black truffle. Served on a sleek plate, it looked deceptively simple. But one bite — the earthy depth of the mushrooms, the silky richness of the cured yolk, the umami blast from the parmesan — and I was hooked. The shaved truffle added a luxurious musk that lingered beautifully.

The bruschetta-style focaccia with culatello, blistered tomato, and basil arrived next, the tomatoes sweet and smoky, bursting against the saltiness of the pork. It was classic, but dialled up — familiar, but elevated in every way.

Pasta Like You’ve Never Tasted

Scala’s pastas are made fresh every day in what they call the Pasta Laboratory — and trust me, the precision shows. Each dish was a revelation in texture, balance and pure pleasure.

The Signature Carbonara by Monosilio is worthy of its fame. A silky, egg-based sauce clings to each strand, kissed with just the right amount of guanciale. It’s rich, yes, but also exquisitely light — a dish that feels both decadent and delicate. It ruined me for all other carbonaras.

Then came the Tortelli, filled with creamy cheese, topped with coal-roasted tomato, burratina, and black truffle. The coal roasting added a subtle smoke that grounded the burrata’s creaminess, while the truffle — generously shaved — offered that elusive edge of indulgence. This was comfort food through a fine-dining lens.

But it was the Pappardelle alla Teramana that completely stole my heart. Wide ribbons of pasta — perfectly al dente — tangled with crisp-fried mini meatballs and a whisper of herb oil. It felt rustic and familiar, but every bite revealed layers of flavour that spoke to serious technique and intention.

Dessert That Dazzles

To finish, I ordered what is fast becoming Scala’s cult dessert: the Scala Egg. It’s a white chocolate shell that arrives glossy and perfect, hiding a centre of vanilla bean mousse, salted caramel, and a sharp hit of passionfruit coulis. Crack it open and it all comes spilling out — creamy, sweet, tart, luxurious. It’s playful, elegant, and seriously addictive. The kind of dessert that makes you smile with every spoonful.

Scala isn’t just doing Italian food differently — it’s doing it brilliantly. This is not nostalgia on a plate. It’s craftsmanship, courage and pure culinary pleasure. Every element — from the bold flavours to the moody atmosphere — feels meticulously thought out yet effortlessly cool.

If you’re in Cape Town and even thinking about pasta, do yourself a favour and book a table at Scala. Go hungry. Go with people who love food as much as you do. And order everything you can.

This is not your mamma’s pasta. It’s better.

Visit Scala for more info and bookings.