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The casual French dinner, now made of small bites

The casual cocktail dinner takes a page from cocktail hour. But there are still rules.

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By The Washington Post | May 15, 2019 | Recipes

Text by Ann Mah, Special to The Washington Post

 

It is a truth universally acknowledged that meals in France are long. Dinner parties usually follow an elaborate ritual of four courses with paired wines, multiple place settings, and pre- and postprandial drinks. By the time it's over, the evening has stretched into the wee hours, and dirty dishes colonize the kitchen. It's an intimidating prospect for the hesitant home cook, the introverted host, those who lack a dining table or anyone who has to get up early the next day.

In recent years, however, a more casual form of entertaining has crept into the French stylebook. Called the apéro dînatoire, it's a relaxed and informal gathering in which guests lounge on the couch or wander around the living room, some (if not all) of the food is store-prepared, and everything is eaten by hand. The concept is surprising in a country where "la table" remains sacrosanct, granny's recipes are prized, and pizza, hamburgers, and bagels with smoked salmon and cream cheese are regularly consumed with a knife and fork. And yet, from Paris to the provinces, it has become a popular way to host friends.

"It's basically the love child of the apéro and the dinner party," says Rebekah Peppler, author of "Apéritif: Cocktail Hour the French Way." "There's plenty of food and drinks, no seating arrangements, you can go back for as many seconds as you want. As a host, it's a way to gather people together in a way that's informal, chic and, most importantly, allows you to enjoy your own party."

The word apéro is an abbreviation of "aperitif," the post-work, pre-dinner cocktail that is itself a French ritual. Adding "dînatoire" implies the occasion is more than just a drink - that the accompanying finger foods will constitute a meal. "It's truly a full meal of small bites," says Marie Asselin, author of "French Appetizers." Unlike the formal French dinner party, which starts traditionally at 8 p.m., the apéro hour can begin as early as 6, making these types of gatherings extremely family friendly.

"It's spontaneous," says my friend Jérôme Avenas, who lives near Lyon, France. "You can invite more people, you can move around. It's perfect for kids, because they're not forced to be constrained."

Of course, this being France, there is a prescribed formula. "I'm expecting crudites," says Avenas. "Definitely charcuterie. Dips - always dips. There's no apéro dînatoire without tapenade" (the olive spread from the south of France). These salty snacks - which pair well with wine and cocktails, and can also include chips, nuts, olives, savory puff pastry palmiers, and gougère cheese puffs - form an ad hoc first course. "We are French, so not everything is on the table yet," he explains. "We always like to have new things coming. We have to keep the ritual going."

While the main course of the meal is also bite-size, it's more substantial - and usually served hot. "I like to serve one or two hot bites - meatballs, quiche or a galette," says Asselin. Often, a homemade savory cake will appear - a quick bread studded with bits of cheese and cured meat. These generous loaves are popular with French home cooks, who call them cakes salés. "You can make a savory cake a day or two in advance," she suggests. "They reheat beautifully. Freeze it and keep it on hand." Next? A cheese course, bien sûr, with lots of baguette. "You're following the same rhythm as a traditional French meal, but in a more casual way," says Asselin.

When selecting cheese, Peppler advises quality over quantity. "I like to choose one or two things that are really excellent in lieu of extraneous variety, she says. "I also usually tuck a fig jam or mostarda on the board, as well."

No meal would be complete without something sweet, and the apéro dînatoire is no different. Especially in the spring or summer months - or "apéro dînatoire season," says Avenas - there's often ice cream or a fruit tart. (The finger-food rule is relaxed at dessert - spoons and forks are okay.) I've even been served chocolate-covered ice cream bars. But if you have extra time, a homemade boozy granita combining crisp white wine and St-Germain, an elderflower liqueur, requires minimal preparation but offers a refreshing, icy kick.

Speaking of a kick, what about the number one requirement of an apéro dînatoire - the apéros, or drinks? "The French tend to be more conservative in their habits," says Kate Hawkings, author of "Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif." "When it comes to aperitifs, it's the same." For a French-themed apéro, she suggests pastis: "It's so appetizing and refreshing, though it should be treated with caution."

Avenas sticks to the basics: "A good quality local wine, usually white or rosé," he says. "Something light and easy to drink."

Whatever you're pouring, remember that the ultimate goal is ease and simplicity: "One of the best things about apéro dînatoire is that, done right, they should be easy," says Peppler. "Flexibility and a relaxed, open mind are key factors." The apéro dînatoire isn't just a party - it's a way of life.

 

Tips for hosting an easy apéro dînatoire

  

- Keep staples on hand. Nuts, crackers and jars of tapenade or shelf-stable pâté or rillettes can all be stored in the pantry and make an instant first course. Keep a bottle of white wine in the fridge, too. Before you start shopping for the party, mine your pantry and fridge for food you can just lay out. "Enjoy the moment just as your guests do - don't spend the whole evening in the kitchen," says Asselin.

- Cook only one thing - or don't cook at all. "Often, the only thing you cook is a quiche or savory cake," says Avenas. "Everything else is bought at the store." Even frozen pizza is common. "Cut it into bite-sized squares," he says. Prepared items like hummus, guacamole and charcuterie are not only acceptable, they're expected.

"There's nothing wrong with choosing assembling over actually turning on the stove top or oven," says Peppler.

- Add condiments to make it fancy. "Charcuterie platters are extra impressive when you round them out with condiments like cornichons and a jar of mustard," says Peppler. For oeufs mayonnaise on the fly, she suggests seasoning store-bought mayo with lemon juice, black pepper and paprika. Scoop a dollop on hard-cooked egg halves.

- Ask for help. Though the potluck doesn't really exist in French culture, the apéro dînatoire's casual, relaxed vibe means anything goes. Feel free to ask friends to bring a dish to share.

- Pour something French - but make it unexpected. "Add a little orgeat (almond liqueur) to your pastis to make a mauresque, or crème de menthe to make a perroquet," says Hawkings. "Pineau de charentes (a sweet fortified wine) makes a really lovely aperitif - chilled, over ice with maybe a slice of lemon. And of course you can never go wrong with champagne." Hawkings and Peppler both offer appropriately French drink recipes in their books.

- Do end with dessert - but keep it simple. "If don't have time to make dessert, I'll take a big bar of dark chocolate and break it into pieces," says Asselin. "People help themselves." Fresh fruit is another good choice.

Make it spontaneous. "Often an apéro turns into an apéro dînatoire unexpectedly," says Avenas. "Like your guests weren't supposed to stay, but you lost track of time." If this happens to you, throw a frozen pizza in the oven, grab another bottle of wine from the fridge, and let the evening unfold.

Mah is a food and travel writer based in Washington and Paris, and the author of several books, including "Mastering the Art of French Eating" and, most recently, "Instantly French! Classic French Recipes for Your Electric Pressure Cooker."

Savory Ham Cake With Cheese and Herbs. Photo by Tom McCorkl; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

SAVORY CAKE WITH HAM, CHEESE AND HERBS

8 servings (makes one 9-by-5-inch loaf)

In France, a "cake" refers to anything baked in a loaf pan, whether sweet or salty. Akin to a quick bread, the savory "cake salé" is a rustic, moist loaf, studded with cheese and toothsome bits like ham or olives. It's an apéro staple among French home cooks, especially at the apéro dînatoire, where its sturdy bulk stands in for a main course.

MAKE AHEAD: This cake improves with age, so you can make it a few days in advance. Slice it before storing, and reheat in a 300-degree oven for 10 minutes before serving.

 

Ingredients

Unsalted butter, for the pan

1 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

4 large eggs

1/2 cup plain full-fat yogurt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup minced fresh chives

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

3 ounces cooked ham, diced

4 ounces grated Gruyere or Comte cheese, grated (1 cup)

6 ounces log-style plain goat cheese, crumbled

Steps

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Use some butter to grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom and two longer sides of the pan with a sling of parchment paper.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, pepper and salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk together the eggs, yogurt, olive oil, chives and thyme in a separate bowl or large liquid measuring cup. Pour the egg mixture into the flour mixture, stirring until just incorporated.

Fold in the ham and Gruyere or Comte cheese. Gently stir in the goat cheese, taking care not to break up the crumbles.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, and smooth the surface.

Bake (middle rack) for about 45 minutes, until the bread is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool completely directly on the rack before serving or storing.

Cut the bread into slices, and/or cut them into halves or quarters to create dainty bites. Serve at room temperature.

(Adapted from "French Appetizers," by Marie Asselin, Gibbs Smith, 2019.)

Roasted Red Pepper and Hazelnut Dip. Photo by Tom McCorkle; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

ROASTED RED PEPPER AND HAZELNUT DIP

4 to 8 servings (makes 3/4 to 1 cup)

This bright and summery red pepper dip makes a refreshing counterpoint to cocktail hour staples such as hummus or guacamole. It's enriched with toasted hazelnuts, which thicken the spread and keep it vegan, but you could also use cashews or toasted almonds.

Serve with crackers, crudites or as a spread on sandwiches.

MAKE AHEAD: The dip can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Stir well before using.

Ingredients

 

1/4 cup skinned hazelnuts

3/4 cup jarred/drained, coarsely chopped roasted red peppers (about 2 large ones)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8 large fresh basil leaves, chopped or torn

1 clove garlic

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Steps

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast for 15 minutes, shaking the pan every 5 minutes so they'll brown evenly. Let cool.

Combine the toasted hazelnuts, roasted red peppers, oil, basil, garlic, salt and crushed red pepper flakes in a food processor; puree until smooth. (Alternatively, you can do this in a high-powered blender, such as a Vitamix.)

The dip is ready to serve, or it can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

NOTE: If you are using skin-on hazelnuts, follow the directions for toasting them (above). When the skins are shiny and crackled, remove from the oven and transfer to a clean dish towel. Close the towel into a bundle and rub the hazelnuts against one another vigorously to remove the skins. Open the towel and pick out the skinned hazelnuts. Discard the skins.

(Adapted from "French Appetizers," by Marie Asselin, Gibbs Smith, 2019.)

Mushroom Pate. Iamage: Tom McCorkle; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

MUSHROOM PÂTÉ

8 servings (makes 1 1/2 to 2 cups)

"In the countryside, everyone has a saucisson sec in the cellar," says a French friend of author Ann Mah; a frequent traveler there, she confirms that charcuterie such as air-dried sausage, rillettes and terrines are practically synonymous with a cocktail dinner (apéro dinatoire). If, however, you're in the mood for something a little lighter, this mushroom pâté is earthy, rich, and meaty - without the meat.

MAKE AHEAD: The pâté can be stored, refrigerated, for up to 4 days.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 small shallot, chopped

2 stems fresh thyme

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or more as needed

1 pound fresh mushrooms (such as portobello, cremini or shiitake), cleaned, trimmed and coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons dry sherry

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon cream cheese

 

Steps

Heat the butter and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Stir in the garlic and shallot;cook for about 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the thyme sprigs and crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute.

Add the mushrooms and the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Increase the heat to medium; continue to cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid released from the mushrooms has almost evaporated. Add the sherry and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Cook for 10 minutes more, or until all the liquid in the pan has evaporated. Let cool.

Discard the thyme stems, then transfer the mushrooms to a food processor along with the parsley. Pulse until finely chopped. Add the cream cheese and pulse just until incorporated.

Taste and add more salt, black pepper and/or crushed red pepper flakes, as needed. The pâté is ready to serve or it can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. 

(Adapted from "Apéritif: 100 Recipes for Drinks and Snacks," by Rebekah Peppler, Clarkson Potter, 2018.)

Garlic-Herb Palmiers. Photo by Stacy Zarin Goldberg; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

GARLIC-HERB PALMIERS

8 servings (makes 32 to 35 pieces)

Addictively crunchy, salty and garlicky, these baked savory bites are everything you could want in a cocktail snack.

Be sure to use the best-quality, all-butter frozen puff pastry you can find; we like using Dufour brand.

MAKE AHEAD: The double roll of filled palmier dough needs to be refrigerated for 15 to 20 minutes, until firm. It is easier to cut when completely chilled, so you can prepare the log a day or two in advance and freeze it. When ready to bake, defrost it for about 10 minutes, before slicing and proceeding with the recipe.

Ingredients

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 to 6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage

1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton)

3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Flour, for dusting

14 ounces frozen all-butter puff pastry, defrosted, preferably Dufour brand (see headnote)

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

3 tablespoons finely grated Comte cheese or Gruyere cheese

1 large egg, lightly beaten

 

Steps

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 375 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine the oil and garlic (to taste) in a small saucepan over low heat; cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until the garlic is soft and tender. Stir in the rosemary, thyme and sage; cook for 1 minute more, then let cool completely. Stir in the smoked paprika, salt and pepper.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Roll out the puff pastry there, into a rectangle about 1/4 inch thick, with one of the long sides parallel to the work surface's edge. Spread the cooled garlic mixture evenly over the rolled-out pastry, then scatter the Parm and Comte or Gruyere cheeses evenly over the surface.

Fold both long sides in toward the center so their edges meet in the middle but do not overlap. Brush any exposed puff pastry with some of the beaten egg, then roll each long side toward each other to meet in the center. Gently squeeze all along the length of the double-roll log so they stick to each other. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes, or until slightly firm.

Use a sharp knife to cut the refrigerated double-roll log crosswise into 32 to 35 slices of equal size, laying them about 1 1/2 inches apart on the baking sheets as you work. (You may have some end scraps, which you can bake and eat as cook's rewards.) Refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes, until firm.

Brush the tops of the palmiers with the remaining beaten egg. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans from front to back and top to bottom halfway through, until golden brown and puffed.

Cool completely. Serve at room temperature.

(Adapted from "Apéritif: 100 Recipes for Drinks and Snacks," by Rebekah Peppler, Clarkson Potter, 2018.)

St-Germain Granita. Photo by Tom McCorkle; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post.

ST-GERMAIN GRANITA

12 servings (makes 12 cups)

A French cocktail dinner (apéro dînatoire) almost always ends with a sweet bite, and this refreshing granita doubles as both cocktail and dessert. It combines crisp white wine with St-Germain, a delicate, elderflower liqueur that was created in 2007, for a bright and icy finish to the evening.

MAKE AHEAD: The granita needs a few hours in the freezer, with occasional stirring. It can be frozen for up to 1 week.

Ingredients

1/2 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups water, preferably filtered

2 strips of peel and 1 1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) juice from 1 lemon

2 strips of peel and 1 1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) juice from 2 limes

One 750-milliliter bottle dry white wine

4 ounces (1/2 cup) St-Germain elderflower liqueur (see headnote)

 

Steps

Combine the sugar and 1/2 cup of the water in a small saucepan over medium heat; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves, to form a syrup. Add the citrus peels and remove from the heat. Let the syrup sit/infuse for 30 minutes, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a container; discard the solids. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled.

Combine the wine, St-Germain, the lemon and lime juices and the remaining 3/4 cup of water in a large liquid measuring cup. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer (to remove any pulp) into a 9-by-13-inch metal pan. Stir in the chilled citrus syrup. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for about 1 hour or until the edges of the mixture have begun to crystallize.

Stir the contents of the pan with a fork, breaking up the frozen bits and near the edges, smashing them, and stirring them with the remaining liquid.

Return the pan to the freezer, then check the mixture every 30 minutes, stirring each time, and using a fork to scrape and mash up the frozen chunks. If the granita becomes too hard, soften it at room temperature for a few minutes and use a fork to stir it and smash it again into fine crystals, before returning it to the freezer.

Divide among small cups or glasses just before serving.

Adapted from "Apéritif: 100 Recipes for Drinks and Snacks," by Rebekah Peppler (Clarkson Potter, 2018).

 Feature Image: Tom McCorkle; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post

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