Nevin Martell, The Washington Post
"This is the best dessert ever!" my 6-year-old son gushed enthusiastically as he dunked a churro into a cup brimming with Mexican hot chocolate.
He might have wanted to say more but decided to concentrate on downing the cinnamon-sugared wand of fried dough instead. I didn't blame him; I was practically hoovering up my order. He, my wife and I were sitting in Cafe San Agustin, a go-to sweet spot in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The brightly lit, always busy churreria's walls are covered with photos and media clippings of its owner, telenovela star Margarita Gralia, and wicker baskets hang from the ceiling. Consider it the city's answer to Cafe Du Monde in New Orleans.
Far from the packed resort beaches of Cancun, Cabo's nonstop party atmosphere and the hipsterdom of Tulum, San Miguel de Allende exists as its own singular slice of Mexican life. Located in the state of Guanajuato, 170 miles north of Mexico City, it boasts cobblestone streets and colonial architecture, giving visitors the impression they've stepped out of time. It's helpful to know traveller's Spanish when making deals at the market or figuring out your lunch order, but there's a large community of retired Americans, so the locals are used to English speakers. Overall, San Miguel de Allende is easy to navigate, safe and rich with activities - an ideal family vacation destination.
Just walking around is rewarding. Colour is everywhere. Violet jacaranda trees and bougainvillaea flowers of radiant pink and royal purple are in full bloom. Street vendors hawk a rainbow of chewing gums, flamboyant handicrafts and a wild kingdom of balloons. Vibrant hues are even present in the most pedestrian elements of everyday life - walls are painted in rich reds and pulsing blues; plants line rooftops with their blooms hanging down; kaleidoscopic bunches of ribbons are tied on window bars to flutter in the breeze. Even the dark wood doors are usually adorned with eye-catching brass knockers and handles.
Breakfast at Lavanda Cafe - highlighted by its daily pastry selections - is worth the wait. Photo for The Washington Post by Nevin Martell
One memorable jaunt was up the steep hill to the east of the town's centre, just behind Parque Benito Juárez. After ascending a series of narrow blocks - welcome shade on one side, sharp sunlight slicing through on the other - we came out on a wider street running perpendicular. There the walls of the homes stop for a terraced stretch called El Mirador, where visitors can revel in the city's clay tile rooftops interspersed with church spires and purple puffs of jacarandas, all sprawled out below.
El Charco del Ingenio, a short cab ride outside of town, is a fun place for parents to stroll while kids run around. The 170-acre botanical garden's patchwork of pathways wend their way between dozens of cactus and succulent varieties, and around a reservoir. During the peak heat of the day, Museo La Esquina offers a rewarding respite for children and adults alike. The carefully curated museum features three floors - and a rooftop with great views - packed with more than 1,000 handmade Mexican toys - from dollhouses and Lucha Libre wrestling figures to papier-mâché Day of the Dead characters and wooden train sets.
There's shopping aplenty with options appealing to all ages. We spent hours browsing in the sprawling arts market (Mercado de Artesanias), its stalls packed with traditional crafts of many mediums including intricate Huichol beadwork, brilliantly coloured hand carved alebrijes (folk art creatures), embroidered linens and pounded tin light fixtures studded with colourful glass beads. For a curated experience, stop at either location of Artlalli, which is packed floor to ceiling with a multitude of miniatures and enamelware for your kitchen. Los Muertos Clothing offers an array of biker or rocker worthy T-shirts that meld Mexican iconography with modern rebellion. Think the Starbucks mermaid rendered as a Day of the Dead skeleton.
To relax as a family, the hot springs at La Gruta Spa, less than a half-hour outside town, were a worthy day trip. There are several pools of varying depths there, so little ones and adults can all enjoy the bliss-inducing waters. Travellers who are looking to crank up their adrenaline instead can go for a sunrise hot air balloon ride or rent four-wheelers to tackle the hills outside town.
An ice cream vendor at El Jardin. Photo for The Washington Post by Nevin Martell
You don't have to do everything together. One day, my wife and I were able to leave our son in the care of my mother and her boyfriend, who were wintering in San Miguel de Allende, so we could take a cooking class with chef Gabby Green. We began by shopping for ingredients in Mercado San Juan de Dios and our host thoughtfully explained the backstory of every item we sourced, including nopales (cactus pads), several chile pepper varieties and chicharrones (pork cracklings). Then we headed back to her restaurant-grade kitchen for a hands-on cooking session, where we produced half a dozen dishes. As we worked, Green discussed techniques and traditions, while refilling any wine glasses she judged were too empty. The experience culminated with a feast of our own making, including mole forged from toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and guacamole topped with pan-fried dried chillies that added crackle and a touch of heat.
When it came time to dine out as a family, it was an easy proposition, because restaurants are child-friendly by default. Perhaps the best meal of the trip was at Nicasio Comedor Mexicano, a funky, fresh-minded eatery just a couple of blocks from El Jardin. In their small open kitchen at the back, chefs and owners Pablo Nicacio and Hugo Tepichin put out marvellously flavourful dishes that pay homage to the country's traditions while taking a forward-thinking approach. A standout: half an avocado, stuffed with creamy spinach amped with parmesan. On top: generous chunks of locally sourced pancetta tossed in maple syrup and drizzled with an herbaceous Mexican olive oil.
We had another delightful experience at Don Taco Tequila, which - once we looked past the ridiculous name - was a most serious endeavour. Though completely vegan, the toothsome tacos are satiating and satisfying - and practically electrified by the fiery house made salsa. To help cool our palates afterwards, we stopped at La Michoacana. Its freezers are packed with a rainbow of paletas, the fruit-studded pops that make you feel like you're being healthy(ish) even as you ride the wave of a sugar rush.
Good coffee was in steady supply. Near the arts market and up steep steps, Inside Cafe, offers intense cold brew and a perfectly proportioned flat white, as well as an exceptional brunch. After shopping at La Fabrica la Aurora, a former fabric mill just outside of town that now houses art galleries and boutique shops, we discovered Geek &Coffee tucked away behind the sprawling complex. The excellent brews were complemented by a selection of sandwiches, salads, and marvellous desserts, such as a mango tart cradled in buttery crust and tender chocolate layer cake.
To caffeinate in the morning, I was quickly won over by Lavanda Cafe. There's always a line by the time it opens, so go early and be prepared to wait across the street from its cobalt-blue door (or just get a to-go cup from the takeout window). Once you're seated, immediately order one of the daily pastry selections to enjoy while you browse the menu, which offers traditional Mexican breakfast options alongside more Western selections.
On the last day of our trip, we stopped there for our final meal. When the server stopped by with the pastry offerings, my son ordered one of the restaurant's signature lemon-glazed cinnamon rolls. He took one bite and smiled, a sugary glaze lingering on his lips.
"This is the best dessert ever!" he declared.
